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Sod Watering

Water is essential to all life...too little water and we die, too much water and we drown. The same is true of the grass in our lawns. Water makes up 70% to 80% of our lawn grasses and the clippings alone are nearly 90% water. While most people are concerned about not watering enough, the fact is that more lawns are damaged or destroyed by over-watering.Give your new lawn at least one inch of water within 1/2 hour of installation. Water daily, or more often, keeping sod moist until it is firmly rooted (about two weeks). Then less frequent and deeper watering should begin.

Weather conditions will dictate the amount and frequency of watering. Be certain that your lawn has enough moisture to survive hot, dry or windy periods.

Roots will seek moisture as the roots grow deeper, and the watering interval will become longer. It may take two years to establish a six inch root.

Sod Mowing

From the human perspective, mowing is the most basic and time consuming of all turf maintenance activities. We generally mow turf grass for two reasons. The main reason for mowing most turf grass is to improve appearance. Mowing turf at appropriate heights and frequencies is a major component of a turf management scheme designed to develop a dense, actively growing, attractive turf. In addition, another reason for mowing turf grass is to produce recreational or sports playing surfaces. Many outdoor athletic or play activities, such as golf, tennis, lawn bowling, baseball, soccer, and football, take place on turf surfaces specifically mowed and managed to accommodate these activities. Conversely, mowing is a destructive practice; it reduces turf grass leaf area available for producing necessary plant metabolites and also opens leaves to disease entrance. In addition, when mowed too short, turf can become open, allowing weed invasion (especially annual weeds such as crabgrass or prostrate spurge). Finally, turf mowed too short often has poorly-developed root systems and reduced rhizome spread, which also contributes to the development of a thin, open turf. Thus, for these reasons, it is important to find the balance that produces attractive, healthy turf in an efficient manner. To assist turf managers find the balance between turf and human needs, information about mowing height, mowing frequency, general mowing practices, handling clippings, and types of mowers requires consideration.


Mowing Height and Frequency


A neatly trimmed lawn is generally considered to be more attractive than one unkempt and shaggy. By mowing frequently and maintaining a uniform turf surface, a neat appearance can be achieved, even at taller heights. Unfortunately, however, a common perception is a short turf is superior in appearance to tall turf. In reality, turf that is uniform appears neater than uneven turf, regardless of height. Proper height and frequency are the two most important aspects of a turf mowing program.

Mowing height Mowing turf at the appropriate height is important to turf health and appearance. Turf cut too short usually has a shallow root system, lacks density, and often requires pesticide applications to stave off weed and pest infestations that commonly occur in stressed lawns. Conversely, tall turf is often considered to be unattractive because of wide leaf blades, low density, and a clumpy, unkempt appearance. In addition, tall turf may not be satisfactory for some sports applications.
 When healthy and actively growing, turf can be mowed at the lower heights; raise mowing heights within the desired range during warm-hot periods or when turf is stressed due to drought, disease, shade, insects, or traffic.

Mowing frequency Turf should be mowed as necessary, not according to a preset schedule. Turf grass grow at different rates depending on weather, management, and species. A basic recommendation is to remove no more than one-third of the grass blade at any one mowing. For example, Kentucky bluegrass being maintained at a two-inch height should be mowed when it reaches three inches. This "one-third rule" will help maintain maximum turf root growth. Removing more than one-third of the grass blades may cause root growth to cease while the leaves and shoots are re-growing. This practice can be especially destructive if practiced continuously over a period of successive mowing. Roots may not have a chance to fully develop and the plants will thus be more susceptible to environmental and management stresses. Maintenance of healthy, growing turf root systems should be a primary consideration of any turf management program.


Other mowing recommendations Occasionally, personal schedules or weather conditions prevent turf mowing when it is needed. If this occurs, attempt to mow using the one-third rule. If turf is six inches tall, and the desired height is two inches, the first mowing should be at four inches, or at the highest setting nearest to four inches . Several days later, mow again by reducing the mowing height using the one-third rule. This mowing should be lower than four inches in height. Continue this pattern until turf is adjusted to the proper height.
Two other basic mowing recommendations are to maintain mower blade sharpness, and to mow when grass is dry. Dull blades tear turf leaving a ragged appearance. In addition, turf water loss and the incidence of turf diseases can be greater from ragged leaf edges than from cleanly cut grass leaves. Thus, cleanly cut turf generally looks better and is often healthier than turf with torn leaves. Also, mow when turf is dry. Wet turf may clog the mower or form clumpy masses on the turf's surface.

Scalping When turf is cut excessively short, scalping can occur. Scalping can occur as the result of irregular land contours, excessive thatch. infrequent mowing, or poor mower adjustment. Scalped turf usually appears brown and stubby due to the removal of healthy leaves and exposure of turf crowns, dead leaves, or even the bare soil. Avoid scalping turf as it can result in unattractive appearance, and in some cases, severely scalped turf may not recover.

Mowing pattern Frequent and close mowing in the same direction or pattern can cause the turf shoots to lean in the direction of cut causing grain to develop. On closely clipped turf, such as a golf course putting green, grain is undesirable because it can alter the path of a putted ball. By altering the mowing pattern with each mowing, the turf shoots tend to grow more upright which reduces grain. In addition, altering the mowing pattern changes the position of the mower wheels or rollers at each mowing which can reduce excessive wear in the same location.
On taller turf, such as parks or home lawns, cutting in the same direction at each mowing is usually not a problem. Taller turf's are less prone to develop grain than are short mowed turf and the turf use is generally not affected. If it is convenient, alter the mowing pattern in these areas at each mowing. In other areas (e.g., small gardens or sloping areas) use the most convenient or safest mowing pattern at each mowing.
Athletic turf managers sometimes use mowing patterns to provide visual interest for their fields. On these fields, the turf is mowed frequently in the same direction using reel mowers to provide striped or checked patterns. Football and baseball fields are often cut in this fashion.

First and last mowing of the growing season The first and last mowing of the year are sometimes handled differently than other mowing. Before the grass begins to grow, in spring mow the turf slightly shorter than normal to remove dead blades and other debris. Be careful not to scalp turf during this initial mowing. Once turf begins active growth, mow at the proper height and frequency. The last mowing of the year should be at the normal mowing height. Turf should neither be cut excessively short nor allowed to become excessively long going into winter.
 

 

  

 

 

 

 

 

   

7 Mountain Sod ~ Lewistown,PA ~ 717-363-1016 ~ gotsod@7mtnsod.com